lundi 23 juin 2008
jeudi 19 juin 2008
13-Sculpture, Market-Art price. Source
Contemporary sculpture in excellent shape [Jun 08]
In the contemporary art field, sculpture, and particularly the offshoot known as 'installations', is currently enjoying a high level of market interest. At the top end, collectors are now paying tens of millions of dollars for monumental works by the likes of Koons, Hirst and Murakami. Artprice takes a look at this high profile segment of the market occupied by young artists, all born after 1945. Today, the type of sculpture that sells for millions is a far cry from the classical conception of 20th century art expressed by the "moderns" like Constantin Brancusi, Artistide Maillol or Alberto Giacometti. In times gone by, the verb to sculpt meant hewing, carving, chipping away or scratching, in other words, removing mass to reveal an image. Today's well-known artists conceive their works and then, to build them, they mobilize an entire workshop in which a wide variety of techniques, materials and dimensions are exploited. Certain works are also conceived as genuine scientific and technical challenges. The monumental - if not 'architectural' - compositions in steel by Richard SERRA are the perfect expression of the expansion of this artistic medium which is today flirting with a new conception of space and which often requires considerable technical skill to accomplish. In this industrial age, the multiple, reproduced in large numbers, also has an important position in the market as it allows art enthusiasts to acquire some symbolic pieces for just a few thousand euros. In fact, while Jeff KOONS, Damien HIRST and Takashi MURAKAMI are adept at selling works for millions of euros, they have also created reproductions that reach the market at affordable prices fortheir fans! In effect, they satisfy the consumer art market with regular three-dimensional mass productions. However, even these "mass" produced works are increasingly sought after. The Ballon Dog in metalicised porcelain, produced by Jeff Koons in a series of 2,300, changed hands in 2002 for between 1,200 and 1,800 euros. Today one would expect to pay between 3,000 and 5,000 euros. His Puppies, small white porcelain vases, 45cm high, produced in 3,000 examples, sell in the same price range. Today, Jeff Koons is the most expensive of the young bloods with a record $21 million for his Hanging Heart (Magenta/Gold) on 14 November 2007 at Sotheby’s. When it sold, this 3-metre red heart was so fresh off the Koons production line that its owner, Adam Lindemann, had it sent to auction directly from the warehouse without ever having exposed the work. In the 1980s, Jeff Koons made art out of common consumer objects like vacuum cleaners, basket balls and various other decorative objects. However, unlike Duchamp, who with his "ready-mades" was not seeking aesthetic pleasure from the exhibiting trivial objects, Koons glorifies mass consumer products within a Pop mindset. By opting to work with the vocabulary of popular culture, Koons hoped to reach a mass audience. His choice has paid handsome dividends! The first collectors of Jeff Koons' work must be very pleased with their acquisitions. For example, the highest bidder for Two ball 50/50 tank that sold on 7 May 1992 at Sotheby´s NY acquired the installation for 65,000 dollars. This work, from the Equilibrium series, contains two basket balls half submerged in an aquarium and was conceived with the assistance of Dr. Richard Feynman, a Nobel prize laureate for Physics. In 2000, the work sold for 220,000 dollars at Phillips NY, and in 2005 a larger scale version with three basket balls fetched nearly double that price (420,000 dollars, Christie’s NY). Damien Hirst, the figurehead of Young British Artists, is the second most expensive contemporary artist with a record auction sale of £8.6 million (more than $17 million) in June 2007 for his Lullaby Spring, a large metallic pillbox containing 6,136 individually painted pills. Rumour has it that the White Cube Gallery in London privately sold Hirst's For The Love Of God, a platinum skull encrusted with 8,601diamonds, for $100 million. If so, that is by far the highest price paid for a work by a living artist. For Damien Hirst, winner of the 1995 Turner Prize, 2007 was a good year as his price index gained 270% over 12 months… However, the increase did not begin in 2007. In 1992, his installation entitled God, was bought in for £4,000 in London. Six years later, it fetched £170,000. Today, the smallest souvenir from the Pharmacy restaurant identifiable as having been created or conceived by Hirst sells as an icon on the market. Even a simple assembly of bottles of wine, with menus and cards from the famous restaurant sold for 420 euros in March 2007. The third most expensive contemporary artist comes from the Land of the Rising Sun. Last May, Takashi Murakami saw one of his spectacular manga sculptures go under the hammer at $13.5 million in New York. The work, My lonesome cowboy, a sculpture representing the triumphant ejaculation of a manga-styled satyr was estimated at $3 to 4 million. At the same time, Murakami fans can buy small plastic or plush figurines at prices ranging from under 100 euros to several hundreds of euros, depending on the model and the number produced. For example, Superfalt museum a set of 10 small figurines in PVC sold for €350 last May at Pandolfini Casa d'Aste (Florence). Just behind the top three discussed above, there is the highly controversial Maurizio CATTELAN, with a record auction price of $2.7 million in 2004 for La Nona Ora. This provocative installation, representing the Pope crushed by a meteorite, had shocked visitors to the Royal Academy of Arts London and the Venice Biennial several years earlier. Another artist above the million dollar line is Robert GOBER. On 15 May last, one of his installations with a leg (+ trouser and shoe) poking through a wall, sold for $3.2 million. The Indian artist Anish KAPOOR is now in sixth position in the ranking of 'most expensive contemporary sculptors' after a large sculpture in alabaster (1.5 metres) sold for $2.5 million in December 2007. But unlike the top three (Koons, Hirst and Murakami), niether Cattelan, nor Gober nor Kapoor have developed an alternative market destined for a wider public. Indeed, in volume terms, their annual auction turnover only represents about 10 pieces each.
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dimanche 8 juin 2008
12-Christie's - Dubai - Iranian Artists
By Matthew Brown
April 29 (Bloomberg) -- Works by Iranian artists, including Parviz Tanavoli and Charles Hossein Zenderoudi, will star in a Christie's International art auction that is expected to raise at least $10 million in Dubai tomorrow.
The two Iranian artists' creations are the most likely to fetch more than $1 million apiece at the sale, said Jussi Pylkkanen, the auction house's European president, in an interview. The sale catalog put a high estimate of $600,000 on both Tanavoli's sculpture ``The Wall (Oh Persepolis)'' and Zenderoudi's painting ``VAV + HWE.''
``The Iranian section dominates at the moment,'' Pylkkanen said. ``I suspect we might make as much as $20 million if it really flies. That's partly a reflection of the quality of the pictures on sale, but also just the growth in the market.''
This will be Christie's fourth art auction in Dubai. Auction houses have been expanding into the emerging markets of China, Russia and the Middle East in recent years, tapping growing personal wealth in some of the world's fastest-growing economies. Crude oil, the region's main source of revenue, rose to a record $119.93 yesterday.
Dubai became the de facto hub of the Middle Eastern art market after Christie's, which vies with Sotheby's as the world's largest art seller, began selling art and jewelry in the sheikdom two years ago. Bonhams held its first auction in the region in Dubai in March.
Moshiri's `Love'
Iran's Farhad Moshiri became the first artist from the Middle East to sell an artwork at auction for more than $1 million when his ``Love'' sold for $1.05 million at Bonham's sale.
Ahmed Mustapha's ``Qu'ranic Polyptych of Nine Panels'' sold for $657,000 at a Christie's Dubai auction onOct. 31, breaking the record for an Arab work of art at auction. Mustapha's ``Meditation on Three Themes from Sura Ya'Sin'' will go on the block at tomorrow's auction with a high estimate of $400,000.
Christie's will continue to hold two Dubai auctions a year, and is looking to stage exhibitions in other Gulf cities in Abu Dhabi, Doha and Saudi Arabia, Pylkkanen said.
``I'd like to see a Turkish section next season,'' he said. ``We may hold a contemporary Indian art sale next year.''
Christie's is also offering $20 million of jewelry and watches in Dubai today. A natural-pearl necklace presented to Egyptian singer Umm Kulthum by the founder of the United Arab Emirates Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan may sell for as much as $120,000, the sale catalog says.
To contact the reporter on this story: Matthew Brown in Dubai at mbrown42@bloomberg.net
05/02/08 |
Tanavoli's Persepolis sculpture breaks record at Dubai art sale |
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Press TV -- Iranian sculptor Parviz Tanavoli sets a new auction record as a Middle Eastern artists at Christie's international art sale in Dubai.
Tanavoli's sculpture 'The Wall (Oh Persepolis)' reportedly fetched some $2.84 million at Christie's fourth auction of modern and contemporary art in Dubai on Wednesday. 'The Wall (Oh Persepolis)' is a bronze sculpture nearly 2 meters tall covered in hieroglyphics. London-based Christie's announced that it had sold over $20 million of mainly Iranian and Arab artwork in the auction, highlighting works by prominent Iranian artists such as Charles Hossein Zenderoudi and Mohammed Ehsai. Dubai is becoming one of the most popular hotspots for art enhusiasts. |
vendredi 6 juin 2008
11-Art Basel-The World's largest Art Fair (Switzerland)
About 60,000 artists, collectors, galleries and art enthusiasts are expected to attend the annual four-day Art Basel fair, with the moneyed set coming to Basel in private jets.
Record prices at recent auctions indicate the market is still resilient despite the credit crunch stemming from the subprime crisis.
More than 300 of the world's leading galleries are presenting works from over 2,000 artists from all five continents, stressing that globalization has also now extended to art - a work by Nigerian artist Yinka Shonibare shows a woman dancing on the globe.
Prices range from millions of dollars for works of established artists to thousands of dollars for newcomers to the art market.
On view are all forms of artistic expression, ranging from paintings, drawings and sculptures to installations, performances and video art. Big names include several who fetched new record prices at a Sotheby's auction in New York last month, when a triptych by Francis Bacon sold for $86.3 million, becoming the most expensive work of contemporary art ever auctioned.
Record prices were also registered there for various other artists on display at Art Basel, including Japan's star Murakami Takashi, Robert Rauschenberg and Tom Wesselman.
Works by Cai Guo-Qiang, the Chinese favorite of Western collectors, are also on view. His series of gun powder drawings was bought for $8.5 million at Christie's in Hong Kong late last year.
Even as the fair opened, the Allianz Suisse insurance company said the demand for coverage to protect private collections has grown 30 percent since the February robbery of four impressionist paintings worth $163 million from a Zurich museum.
"Despite the financial market crisis and high energy prices, the art market is still booming - as is the market for private art insurance," the company said.
The company's art expert, Oliver Class, said Allianz had already reached its sales goal for the full year. Allianz Suisse also said it now is insuring collections for more than $624 million, up from about $240 million three years ago, and that it expects its business to double in the next three years.
Two of the paintings taken in the robbery, by Claude Monet and Vincent van Gogh, were recovered a few days after the robbery. The other two- by Paul Cezanne and Edgar Degas - remain missing.
A parallel "Art Unlimited" exhibition features works by 60 artists from 23 countries. It spotlights completely unconventional art, some works created especially for the occasion, such as a dollar-covered wallpaper installation by American artist Tony Oursler.
The Art Basel newspaper reported that when he crossed the nearby German-Swiss border, German customs officers discovered more than 1,000 dollar bills stuffed in his bag. The daily said the officers counted every note to make sure that the booty did not exceed Germany's legal export limit of $10,000.
mercredi 4 juin 2008
10- Maurice de Vlaminck De Tardais au Luxembourg
Maurice de Vlaminck – at the origin of Fauvism [Apr 08]
Until 20 July 2008, the Museum of Luxemburg is hosting an exhibition dedicated to Maurice de Vlaminck works from the 1900 to 1915, a period during which the research he conducted with Derain in Chatou was essential to the renewal of painting at the start of the 20th century At auction, landscapes from this period fetch the highest prices. Indeed it was a Chatou landscape that generated de Vlaminck's current price record when it sold for GBP 6.5 million (USD 9.3 million) on 2 June 2004. The painting, dated 1906, is to date the most expensive fauve work ever to have changed hands. Previous to that sale it had been acquired at auction by Alain Delon in 1989 for USD 6.5 million. Vlaminck's prices, however, leave little chance of acquiring one of his works for under EUR 10,000. Under this threshold, enthusiasts may occasionally find some rare India inks drawings; but de Vlaminck's paper works are usually executed in gouache. And his water-colours and gouache works are often large formats that change hands for between 15,000 and 20,000 euros, as did Paysagecampagnard, a water-colour that sold for CHF 28,000 (EUR 16,000) at the Galerie du Rhone in December 2007. For much smaller budgets, there is a very extensive market in de Vlaminck prints. These prints regularly appear at auction throughout the world and the majority sell for under EUR 300. For example, in May 2007 at Winterberg Arno in Germany, La Rue de le Glacière, a print from 1937, sold for EUR 120. Personnage sur un chemin, was sold for EUR 150 at Martin-Chausselat in Versailles. In the United States, Montmartre Street Scene sold for the equivalent of EUR 161 at the auction house Charlton Hall Galleries in February 2008. But while this segment of the market is a good way to start a collection, it offers little upside potential in terms of value. Their price index has been absolutely stable for decades. For example, La Plaine de Boissy-les-Perches, an etching from 1923-1925 has gone to auction a dozen or so times in 10 years. Each time, the work sold within a price range of EUR 350 to 550. De Vlaminck's ceramic works are relatively unknown by the general public and he did not develop the same themes as those he worked on canvas or on paper. His stylised decorations of plates and tiles rarely fetch more than EUR 2,000 – 3,000, even in perfect condition. Certain large works may occasionally fetch more than EUR 10,000 such as a vase measuring 35cm in height presenting a substantial floral composition which sold for EUR 48,000 in June 2002 at Piasa. |
9- Contemporary French Art( Francais/Anglais)
Pierre Kimm - Picture-2008 Contemporary French art is in vogue [Jun 08] Riding on the back of a sector-wide surge in contemporary art prices, the most attractive works of some French artists are now selling for more than a million Euros. At the beginning of this year, the depressed financial environment fuelled fears that the speculative bubble that the art market had been wrapped up in for several years would finally pop. The first sales at Drouot in February and March 2008 failed to reassure buyers. Paris only perked up after the successful New York sales in May. Overall, market prices for French art have been flat since the beginning of the year but works at the very top of the range still seem to be rising. In the current economic climate, contemporary art remains very speculative and more than ever the exceptional works from market stars are very expensive. This enthusiasm is clearly reflected in the multiplication of million euro bids for contemporary French artists. Artprice has reacted by rating contemporary French artists according to records hit at auction. At the top, only three of them have managed to reach the million euro mark.
Top of the class is Louise Bourgeois with a bid of $3.6m (€2.8m) in New York in November 2006 for a monumental bronze Spider more than 2 metres high which was cast in 1997. This year in France, she received a bid of €2.5m ($4m) for another spider that was smaller, more recent and in steel, a work that she produced in 2003at the age of 91. This is proof of the speculation surrounding the oldest French artist: this record simply crowns her most recent piece in an auction. True, her price levels soared another 79% in 2007 and her retrospective at the Tate Modern in London, and subsequently in Paris at the Pompidou Centre, and soon in New York means she currently has an intense media presence. Just like Louise Bourgeois and Soulages, most of Georges Mathieu’s sales are abroad. This tends to prove that a French artist must make his name internationally before getting top prices at auction. If, like Richard Texier and Jean-Pierre Raynaud, demand is essentially national, price levels for French artists seem to stall at a certain level. Even Robert Combas, whose overall sales proceeds often put him at the top of French artists, fails to make the Top 10 for price levels where the entry level is €200,000. |
lundi 2 juin 2008
8- Dubai, David Fisher & the Dynamic architecture
Dr David Fisher - Profile Dr David Fisher, Architect and Town Planner, is an Italian citizen, who has been passionately working on redefining the technical and technological extremes of buildings, especially in urban centres like New York, Moscow, Hong Kong, Paris and Dubai, for over three decades now.
Fisher started as an artist in Florence , the home of Italian Renaissance. After graduating with Honors from the University of Florence in 1976, Fisher started teaching Architecture in the same university and at the School of Structural Engineering .
On account of his academic achievements and research activities, Fisher was awarded an Honorees Cause Ph.D by the Prodeo Institute at the Columbia University in New York .
Along with his academic pursuits, Fisher was also involved in the restoration of ancient landmarks and design of public buildings. Through the New York office of his Fiteco Ltd, which he launched in the mid eighties, Fisher started getting associated with the prefabrication and development of construction technologies as well as in the construction and development of hotel projects.
His professional activity was always focused on two things: Designing buildings that can adjust themselves to the needs of its inhabitants, thus being “dynamic”, and the industrial production of construction units.
Some of the technologies he developed include the ‘Smart Bathroom by Leonardo da Vinci' system, a completely pre-assembled bathroom system for luxury hotels and homes. Considered the first “mechanical” approach to civil construction, it is the only existing factory-produced and integrated bathroom system. Fisher's LDV Group incorporated this system into buildings in Italy for the first time, followed by Dubai , London , Moscow , Paris and Hong Kong .
Fifty-eight-year old, Fisher believes that “whatever is correct is nice; whatever is nice is not always correct”. He has also written various articles on his professional activities and on architecture.
According to Fisher, time is the most powerful dimension of life. “Time”, says Fisher “is the dimension of relativity”. His new skyscraper, the tower in motion, is shaped by “life designed by time”.
April 18, 2008 Dubai
Dubai has well earned its reputation for architectural extravagance and excess.
Not a cent has been spared as various developers vie to produce the biggest, the most stunning, the most luxurious projects ever undertaken.
And while this next project is right up there in terms of luxury, exclusivity and head-spinning architectural genius, it adds a fascinating extra dimension - the ability to generate ten times as much power as it will use.
Each floor of Dynamic Architecture's wind-powered rotating skyscraper is a single apartment with the ability to rotate independently, giving residents the ability to choose a new view at the touch of a button - quite a party trick. Wind turbines between each floor will generate a vast surplus of electricity capable of powering the whole surrounding neighborhood.
The method of construction is also fascinating; each floor will be pre-fabricated in segments in a quality-controlled factory before being lifted and secured into place on a concrete spine, bringing costs and construction times down significantly. Construction is set to begin soon in Dubai, with a second tower to follow in Moscow and numerous other sites around the world being considered.
The genius inDr. David Fisher's design of the DYNAMIC ARCHITECTURE wind-powered rotating skyscraper is its powerful and unique appeal to so many stakeholders. With luxury and jaw-dropping architecture becoming so common in Dubai, and so many wealthy and impressionable people wishing for their homes to stand out from the crowd, the tower's unique ability for each floor to rotate independently will surely place it in high demand. It will also be a stunning landmark for the city, catching the sun as it quietly twists like a monolithic Rubik's cube.
The wind turbines between each floor make the tower an environmentally positive construction, generating a large excess of power to put back into the energy grid. Each turbine has the peak ability to produce around 0.2 megawatt hours of electricity. Given Dubai has an average of 4000 hours of wind annually, with an average wind speed of 16 km/h, the turbines are estimated to produce around 1,200,000 kilowatt-hours of energy per year. Four of the 48 turbines in the building will be enough to power the entire tower, leaving the other 44 to provide surplus energy back into Dubai's power grid.
The tower's unique properties allow for an equally innovative construction process. Instead of building the tower from the ground up, floor by floor as most skyscrapers are built, the rotating tower will be built in parallel stages. As a team on site builds the enormous concrete core, or spine of the building, complete with the elevators, a separate team will be working in a dedicated factory, prefabricating each floor in segments. Once the core is complete, the segments will be lifted up the side of the building and each floor will be assembled and attached, from the top floor down, around the central spine.
This method holds a number of advantages over traditional construction schedules. Firstly, since the core and floor segments are being built in parallel, the construction can be much quicker, resulting in a time saving of around 30% for a similarly sized regular tower. Secondly, vastly fewer workers need to be on site at the tower, meaning only around 90 specialist workers will need to work in difficult and dangerous conditions at the tower itself, the remainder being in an optimal, safe and comfortable factory setting.
<PCLASS=AR_BODY_TEXT>Thirdly, each modular apartment can be easily customized to the buyer's desires, and every small component can be finished and quality assessed much more easily than an on-site construction, leading to higher standards of quality control. Architect David Fisher sees the construction method as the equivalent of an industrial revolution in construction, bringing large-scale building practices into line with industrial practices in other areas. The first industrial prefabrication factory will be located in Italy.The rotating tower is slated to begin construction soon in Dubai according to Dynamic Architecture - and the 420-meter, 80-floor Dubai tower will be followed by a 70-floor, 400-meter tower in Moscow which is currently in advanced design phase. The company is in preliminary talks with the cities of Milan, London, New York, Hamburg and Sao Paolo for further implementations.
All images courtesy of Dr. David Fisher and Dynamic Architecture (all rights reserved).
dimanche 1 juin 2008
7 - "Chanel a donne la liberte aux femmes, YSL , le pouvoir", Adieu Monsieur Saint Laurent
By ELAINE GANLEY
Associated Press Writer
PARIS (AP) - Legendary designer Yves Saint Laurent, who reworked the rules of fashion by putting women into elegant pantsuits that came to define how modern women dressed, died Sunday evening, a longtime friend and associate said. He was 71.
Pierre Berge, Saint Laurent's business partner for four decades, said he had died at his Paris home following a long illness.
A towering figure of 20th century fashion, Saint Laurent was widely considered the last of a generation that included Christian Dior and Coco Chanel and made Paris the fashion capital of the world, with the Rive Gauche, or Left Bank, as its elegant headquarters.
In the fast-changing world of haute couture, Saint Laurent was hailed as the most influential and enduring designer of his time. From the first YSL tuxedo and his trim pantsuits to see-through blouses, safari jackets and glamorous gowns, Saint Laurent created instant classics that remain stylish decades later.
"I am saddened by the loss of such a legendary talent," designer Tommy Hilfiger said in an e-mailed statement to The Associated Press. "He was a creative genius who changed the world of fashion forever."
"Chanel gave women freedom" and Saint Laurent "gave them power," Berge said on France-Info radio. Saint Laurent was a "true creator," going beyond the aesthetic to make a social statement, Berge said.
When Saint Laurent announced his retirement in 2002 at age 65 and the closure of the Paris-based haute couture house he had founded 40 years earlier, it was mourned in the fashion world as the end of an era. His ready-to-wear label, Rive Gauche, which was sold to Gucci in 1999, still has boutiques around the world.
"Mr. Saint Laurent revolutionized modern fashion with his understanding of youth, sophistication and relevance. His legacy will always be remembered," said Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa.
Saint Laurent was born Aug. 1, 1936, in Oran, Algeria, where his father worked as a shipping executive. He first emerged as a promising designer at the age of 17, winning first prize in a contest sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat for a cocktail dress design.
A year later in 1954, he enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale school of haute couture, but student life lasted only three months. He was introduced to Christian Dior, then regarded as the greatest creator of his day, and Dior was so impressed with Saint Laurent's talent that he hired him on the spot.
When Dior died suddenly in 1957, Saint Laurent was named head of the House of Dior at the age of 21. The next year, his first solo collection for Dior - the "trapeze" line - launched Saint Laurent's stardom. The trapeze dress - with its narrow shoulders and wide, swinging skirt - was a hit, and a breath of fresh air after years of constructed clothing, tight waists and girdles.
In 1960, Saint Laurent was drafted into military service - an experience that shattered the delicate designer, who by the end of the year was given a medical discharge for nervous depression.
Bouts of depression marked his career. Berge, the designer's longtime business partner and former romantic partner, was quoted as saying that Saint Laurent was born with a nervous breakdown.
Saint Laurent returned to the spotlight in 1962, opening his own haute couture fashion house with Berge. The pair later started a chain of Rive Gauche ready-to-wear boutiques.
Life Magazine hailed his first line under his own label as "the best collection of suits since Chanel."
Nowhere was Saint Laurent's gift more evident than the valedictory fashion show that marked his retirement in January 2002.
Forty years of fashion were paraded in a 300-piece retrospective that blurred the boundaries of time, mixing his creations of yesterday and today in one stunning tribute to the endurance of Saint Laurent's style. He also designed costumes for theater and film.
There was the simple navy blue pea coat over white pants, which the designer first showed in 1962 when he opened his couture house and kept as one of his hallmarks.
His "smoking," or tuxedo jacket, of 1966 remade the tux as a high fashion statement for both sexes. It remained the designer's trademark item and was updated yearly until he retired.
Also from the 60s came Beatnik chic - a black leather jacket and knit turtleneck with high boots - and sleek pantsuits that underlined Saint Laurent's statement on equality of the sexes. He showed that women could wear "men's clothes," which when tailored to the female form became an emblem of elegant femininity.
"More than any other designer since Chanel, YSL represented Paris as the style leader," The Independent of London wrote in an editorial after Saint Laurent's retirement. "By putting a woman in a man's tuxedo, he changed fashion forever, in a style that never dated."
In his own words, Saint Laurent said he felt "fashion was not only supposed to make women beautiful, but to reassure them, to give them confidence, to allow them to come to terms with themselves."
Some of his revolutionary style was met with resistance. There are famous stories of women wearing Saint Laurent pantsuits who were turned away from hotels and restaurants in London and New York.
One scandal centered on the designer himself, when he posed nude and floppy-haired for a photographer in 1971, wearing only his trademark thick black glasses, to promote his perfume.
Saint Laurent's rising star was eternalized in 1983, when the Metropolitan Museum of Art devoted a show to his work, the first ever to a living designer.
Subsequent shows at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg and in Beijing made him a French national treasure, and he was awarded the Legion d'Honneur in 1985.
When France basked in the glory of its 1998 World Cup soccer final, it was Saint Laurent who took center field pre-kick off with an on-field retrospective at the Stade de France.
In 1999, Saint Laurent sold the rights of his label to Gucci Group NV, ceding control of his Rive Gauche collection, fragrances, cosmetics and accessories for US$70 million cash and royalties.
Industry insiders cited friction between Saint Laurent and Gucci's creative director, Tom Ford, as a likely factor in the fashion guru's decision to retire three years later. Ford stepped down in 2003.
When he bowed out of fashion in 2002, Saint Laurent spoke of his battles with depression, drugs and loneliness, though he gave no indication that those problems were directly tied to his decision to stop working.
"I've known fear and terrible solitude," he said. "Tranquilizers and drugs, those phony friends. The prison of depression and hospitals. I've emerged from all this, dazzled but sober."
Associated Press writers Rachid Aouli and Joelle Diderich in Paris and Samantha Critchell in New York contributed to this report.
«(Gabrielle) Chanel a donné la liberté aux femmes. Yves Saint Laurent leur a donné le pouvoir. Il a quitté le territoire esthétique pour pénétrer sur le territoire social. Il a accompli une oeuvre à portée sociale», a-t-il dit sur France Info.
Les obsèques d'Yves Saint Laurent auront lieu jeudi à l'église Saint-Roch à Paris.
Avec sa ligne «Trapèze» (1958), qui rompt avec les tailles de guêpe de l'époque, le mince et timide jeune homme de 20 ans fait toute de suite sensation. En 1961, il crée sa propre maison en partenariat avec Pierre Bergé. Ensemble, le premier à la création, le second à la gestion, ils vont bâtir une griffe qui symbolise toujours l'élégance française.
Le président français Nicolas Sarkozy a salué la mémoire du maître en affirmant qu'avec lui «disparaît un des plus grands noms de la mode, le premier à élever la haute couture au rang d'un art en lui assurant un rayonnement planétaire».
Féru de théâtre, d'opéra et de littérature, Yves Saint Laurent a dessiné des bijoux, des décors et des costumes pour des pièces et des spectacles. Toujours à l'avant-garde, il a créé des parfums, dont le premier Opium, en 1977, fut un succès immédiat et lancé le prêt-à-porter de luxe en ouvrant un magasin rive gauche.
La maison Saint Laurent sera vendue deux fois: en 1993 à Elf Sanofi et en 1999 au groupe Gucci, filiale du groupe français PPR, qui a scindé la griffe en deux entités, la haute couture étant préservée au 5 avenue Marceau où Yves Saint Laurent créera ses modèles jusqu'en 2002. Cette année-là et pour ses adieux, il a présenté au centre Georges Pompidou, à Paris, un défilé rétrospective de 40 ans de création à la fin duquel il a été ovationné.
ats/cer